The second time I went to Holbox, I was shocked to discover how developed the island was. It was exactly ten years after my initial visit. Upon arriving to the island, however I realized that not much had changed, yes, there was now a scheduled ferry from Chiquila to Holbox, and there are now many more hotels, however the island has maintained it’s secluded, quiet side. The hotels tend to be small and a bit far apart, so as not to have too many people crowding the beach, yet the roads are still mostly sand and the only transportation available are golf carts or bikes. The city center itself has grown, but not to much, and the 1,500 residents that live there full time all agree that the island should stay as quiet and serene as possible.
The first night I met a couple of people who lived on the island, they recommended going to Isla Passion, a tiny island, more like a big mound of dirt, right off of Holbox. I was told to drive my golf cart to the very west side of the island, and that I could just swim, or even walk across the lagoon, to Isla Passion, home to a bird watching tower and many extravagant birds. Adventurous as I am, the very next morning I took off, and after a few wrong turns which led me to kite boarding camps, I arrived to the west point. The lagoon wasn’t deep at all, and if not for the very damp mud that kept sucking me in I could have walked across, however swimming was easier, albeit longer. The complete calmness surrounding me was refreshing, just the occasional flap of a wing and the bluest of skies to keep me company. Once on Isla Passsion I sat and enjoyed the amazing view of the Golf of Mexico, I still couldn’t get over the different hues of greens and blues the water had. There were birds everywhere, talking to each other and singing out towards the ocean, everywhere I looked there were different colored seagulls, and pelicans, all enjoying, it seems the same mesmerizing view as me.
With the whole Riviera Maya growing and changing, Holbox is a refreshing piece of what a small Mexican beach town used to be, and although I would not call the center of the town beautiful, it is charming in the way that you can still see local basketball teams play in the city court at dusk. Many hotels have sprung up, but they all tend to follow the same guideline, of keeping Holbox as small and intact as possible. In fact most of the developed part is on the west part of the island, leaving the center and east side free of any construction.
On my last night I decided to take my golf cart as far east as I could go, I wanted to experience the same unforgettable sunset, I had seen the first time I had visited ten years prior, and I must say that mother nature did not disappoint. As the sun began to set, it also began to grow in size and its blaze turned into a dark orange, I could look directly into it without hurting my eyes. The surrounding clouds began to change, as if there was a rainbow hidden inside, from dark purple to dark pink, colors scattered the now darkening sky, and as if on a cue when the last of the sun had lowered into the horizon a dark ray of green jumped out from behind.
Greetings from the tropical water of the Riviera Maya!
Moskito Riviera Maya